anclaje

sitting on the break yesterday as the sun came up after a long paddle through the jetties and it was peeling nicely even though we thought it might not work for us.  sets were slow but the faces were clean and the rides were long and workable.  time to talk and paddle back out on flat water and dead calm so much that you could hear your own hands enter the water and push past the foam left behind by the passing of the last breaking wave... and it occured to me that the namesake of where we were surfing represented so much of what we were there for, what we were trying to leave behind.  The anchor.  The anchors we all bear in life that tie us to something... and for all of the hope I have in me that the anchors that weigh particularly heavy on one of us in such a way that we all feel tied and the weight is there ....and when we came to this place with hope that it might be liberated from the figurative coral head it is lodged in ... god willing.

Comments

[nednimby]

dude....so well put.

Panama...t-minus 29 days.